Guide to Setting Styles
When deciding the setting for your bespoke ring it is essential that you consider some important factors. Aside from personal style and taste; Lifestyle should also be taken into consideration because some stone settings may be more suitable than others. A Classic Tiffany style setting will stick out a lot more than a moden bezel setting so one may be more suitable than the other especially for people with more active lifestyles or jobs.
Claw or Prong setting
Introduced by Tiffany & Co in 1886, the most traditional way that centre stones are set is in some form of claw or prong setting such as the classic Tiffany style 6-claw setting.
A basket-setting allows the claws to be a lot finer and the tips of the claws can also be shaped so they appear tear/pear shaped (like Harry Winston), rounded or flattened tips etc. There are always lots of permutations regarding how high or low the stone can be set as well.
In a bezel setting, the stone is completely encased within a wall of metal. This is a very popular option for people with more active lifestyles and jobs, or with concerns about the ring catching onto clothing etc.
Stones are usually set a lot lower than other style settings, and are often more comtemporary in design and theme. Some gemstones are often suited to the bezel setting because they may be relatively soft such as Tazanite or Garnet, and the bezel gives a far greater level of protection than a more traditional claw or prong setting. We can advise you on the most suitable style setting for your chosen stone.
Half Bezel setting
By surrounding a stone only partially, a half-bezel setting exposes the diamond from the sides to allow you to view the side of a stone while benefiting from the increased protection and lower style setting. The half-bezel style setting was probably made famous when Tiffany introduced the Etoile ring. This simple contemporary design still proves very popular today and is often as much in demand for gents wedding rings and committment rings as it for a traditional engagement ring.
The shank of the band can be made very wide as wide or wider than the diameter of the diamond to provide a very chunky and heavy statement ring, or a much narrower band can be used.
Micropave is commonly used in setting small diamonds, where the stones are set as closely together as possible with each stone being held by tiny beads of metal.
The appearance created resembles the same pattern as a pavement, which results in a dazzling sparkle which can be utterly breathtaking. Each diamond (often less then 1.0mm in diameter) is individually hand-set under a microscope one at a time, only the most skilled and experienced of craftsmen possess the skills necessary to create the finest quality work.
Pave setting is a general term used to describe the setting of small diamonds and gemstones, usually one row, where the stones are set as closely together as possible with each stone being held by tiny beads of metal similar to micropave, either on the shank and shoulders of a ring or in a surrounding halo.
There are many different styles of Pave setting such as bright-cut, fish-tail, cut-down etc, and diamonds are individually hand-set under a microscope. The style of pave setting used is very much personal choice and style and whether you want more or less metal on display. Budget will also be a factor too, but feel free to contact us for advice on the most suitable style of pave setting for you.
Tension style settings allow for the diamond to apparently ‘float’ and shows off the beauty of your diamond from all angles. Made popular several years ago, we have made many tension style settings.
This will help to keep the diamond in place as we found that with the pure tension style setting the diamond was prone to work loose over time as there was nothing to stop the ring from being pulled apart.
Channel-set diamonds are held securely, literally inside a "channel" of metal without any claws or beads of metal holding the stones in place. Stones can be set as closely as possible or they can be evenly spaced for a unique look.
Channel-setting is more suitable for square or straight edged diamonds.
We advise against this style of setting for round diamonds because there will be tiny gaps in between the stones that may attract dirt and dust, so this setting is more suited to princess-cut, square cut (carre, french-cut, baguettes) etc. where are there no gaps and the diamonds all sit snugly against one another in a seamless transition from one diamond to the next with no gaps.
Gypsy or Rubover setting
Similar to the bezel, gypsy-set (or rubover-set) stones are completely surrounded and encased in metal, but the difference being they are completely set within the metal so that the stone ends up being flush with the surface of the metal.
This is often used for small side stones in the shoulders of a ring to add additional colour or sparkle, or on wedding rings with a scattering of graduating diamonds.
We can even set stones on the inside of wedding rings as a secret symbol between you and your loved one.
Lucida or Trellis setting
This ornate alternative to the traditional claw-set option features cross-over prongs of metal that gives a very delicate look and adds another dimension by allowing for a beautiful side profile.
Made famous by the Tiffany Lucida style settings we have made many versions using different shaped centre stones and side stones for a unique solitaire or trilogy ring design.
All the setting styles shown here are examples of the vast myriad of possibilities available for you when you choose to commission a unique bespoke ring.
We are happy to answer any questions you may have, whether you're looking for an engagement ring, eternity ring or wedding rings, there is a unique or traditional solution just for you.